Thames Forts Part One
11th October 2009

Sunday 11th October 2009 and a long-held personal ambition finally came true on the third attempt!

The occasion was the paddle-steamer SS Waverley 'Thames Forts' cruise from Tower Bridge and Southend. In 2006 the cruise was diverted to the Medway because of bad weather (we got soaked!), we gave 2007 a miss because I was at work, and in 2008 the cruise was so popular that we had to disembark at Southend and so missed the forts. Never mind, the aftermath of a recession in 2009 and a not-too-good weather forecast saw us boarding the Waverley at Southend and after so many years I was able to see the Thames Forts up close from a vintage paddle-steamer.

Historical reminders start immediately upon leaving the mile long Southend pier. Just opposite Southend and 3000 yds off the Sheerness shoreline lies the Richard Montgomery, a wrecked WW2 Liberty Ship which foundered with 7000 tons of explosive in 1944. She was anchored over the Sheerness Middle Sand and when the tide went out she broke her back due to an error of misjudgement. There are still 3500 tons of explosives buried in the mud within the broken hulk and she is surveyed annually to check just how great the danger is to the local area. To date the reports have been that she be best left alone and her three masts are still clearly visible, surrounded by a constellation of warning buoys and signs.

Also visible was a section of the Mulberry Harbour which became stranded when being towed out to sea on 5th June 1944. She has since broken into two sections and proves to be a dangerous lure to the adventurous when the tide is out! Behind the Mulberry section can be seen the tall pilings of the former WW2 anti-submarine 'fence' or boom. This was part of a system of fences, boats and nets which denied enemy submarines access to the Thames Estuary and the docks towards London.

The first highlight of this visit was to finally see the Red Sands Maunsell Army Fort. This somewhat unearthly looking reinforced concrete and steel construction consists of seven towers consisting of a central Control Tower, four Gun Towers, a Bofors Tower, and a slightly removed Searchlight Tower. The sections were floated out to their present site in late 1943, acted as a useful deterrent to enemy aircraft, and were finally abandoned in 1958. In 1964 Red Sands become the site of pirate radio; first Radio Invicta, then K.I.N.G, then Radio 390. However, the radio era ended in July 1967 and all that remains today are a few faded painted signs on the outside of a couple of the towers.

The Waverley quickly steamed past the Red Sands towers and we headed to the next next of the Thames Forts. The weather was rapidly getting worse with the threat of rain and poor visibility, did we make it in time? See Part Two - coming soon!

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The remains of the WW2 Liberty ship Richard Mongomerey which lay off Sheerness.
The remains of the WW2 Liberty ship Richard Mongomerey which lay off Sheerness.
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The WW2 Mulberry Harbour section which became stranded when being towed out to sea on 5th June 1944.
The WW2 Mulberry Harbour section which became stranded when being towed out to sea on 5th June 1944.
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In the distance the former WW2 anti-submarine 'fence' or boom can be seen.
In the distance the former WW2 anti-submarine 'fence' or boom can be seen.
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Our first view of the Red Sands Maunsell Army Fort whilst overhauling the sand dredger 'Arco Djik'.
Our first view of the Red Sands Maunsell Army Fort whilst overhauling the sand dredger 'Arco Djik'.
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The Ethel Ada, an 82ft wooden spritsail-rigged sailing Thames barge built in Paglesham in Essex by the Shuttlewood Brothers in 1903, and named after the two wives of the shipwrights. Her hull is oak on oak frames, the bottom boards being of pitch pine.
The Ethel Ada, an 82ft wooden spritsail-rigged sailing Thames barge built in Paglesham in Essex by the Shuttlewood Brothers in 1903, and named after the two wives of the shipwrights. Her hull is oak on oak frames, the bottom boards being of pitch pine.
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The Red Sands Searchlight Tower.
The Red Sands Searchlight Tower.
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A closer view of the Searchlight Tower, some painted signs are just about visible on the walls.
A closer view of the Searchlight Tower, some painted signs are just about visible on the walls.
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Believed to be the G4 Gun Tower.
Believed to be the G4 Gun Tower.
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To the fore the Bofors tower, the Control Tower is in the centre, and the G3 Gun Tower is in the background.
To the fore the Bofors tower, the Control Tower is in the centre, and the G3 Gun Tower is in the background.
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A close up of the Bofors Tower, lettering from her pirate radio days can be clearly seen.
A close up of the Bofors Tower, lettering from her pirate radio days can be clearly seen.
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In the foreground a clear view of the Control Tower, note the number of connecting walkways she used to have; the remains of one walkway can still be seen. The G3 Gun Tower is behind her.
In the foreground a clear view of the Control Tower, note the number of connecting walkways she used to have; the remains of one walkway can still be seen. The G3 Gun Tower is behind her.
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Gun Tower G1 which has been modified as a platform for scientific equipment. Gun Tower G2 is almost directly behind her.
Gun Tower G1 which has been modified as a platform for scientific equipment. Gun Tower G2 is almost directly behind her.
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The Control Tower surrounded by Gun Towers. The sand dredger 'Arco Djik' passes by on the other side of the fort.
The Control Tower surrounded by Gun Towers. The sand dredger 'Arco Djik' passes by on the other side of the fort.
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The Searchlight Tower from a distance. Various moored ships can be seen in the background.
The Searchlight Tower from a distance. Various moored ships can be seen in the background.
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A last view of the Red Sands fort as we steam onward to the next Maunsell Army Fort.
A last view of the Red Sands fort as we steam onward to the next Maunsell Army Fort.
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